Friday, January 26, 2007

San Marco, London Road, Derby

I'm sure my skinny (skinny blister/ sister) won't mind me saying that she's a pretty fussy eater at the best of times, I'm not just talking about what she likes to eat, but "this chair's not comfortable", "I can feel the air conditioning too much at this table", "it's a bit too smokey here, let's sit over there", etc, etc. Many a waitress has taken an order from us, only to return to the table half an hour later with plates of hot food, to find it empty, Marie Celeste style. Well it's Mother's birthday today (Burns night), and we're en route to collect a family friend with a view to going on to the Saracens Head at Shirley, 1 minute from Rowland's house and the word from the back of the car is.......................it's now San Marco.
San Marco on London Road is huddled amongst some of Derby busiest eateries (Anoki, Peppitos, etc) in what is probably one of Derby's oldest remaining areas for restaurants.
Considering it's such a cold night, the large room is warm and cosy (good lighting is important). We plonk our bum's on one of their large sofas and order a focaccia to share (not the one on the menu, but the one they used to do. It's good). We're seated. So how long before my skinny complains, we're too near the speaker on the wall?
Crisp clean linen, sparkling cutlery, only the slightly dry bread at fault so far. Still not a squeak out of my skinny. Focaccia all gone, the dry bread used to mop-up the remaining garlicky oil on the plate, mmmmm. Agnello Nero (about £13) for the birthday girl, a plate of well cooked lamb cutlets, with a rich red wine & garlic sauce, topped with a wedge of polenta. Filetto Pasticcione (£15.95) for my skinny, filet medalions with a brandy, porcini & mushroom sauce. Filetto San Marco (£15.95) for yours truly, a thick filet cooked medium/rare (should have just said rare, what was I thinking about?) wrapped in a slice of prosciutto, and neatly balanced on a bed of spinach. It was supposed to have a whisky & cream sauce, but I didn't detect the whisky. Pollo Mediterraneo (£10.75) for Rowland, a chicken breast on a bed of tagliatelle, topped with a mound of brightly coloured peppers, courgettes & olives. His plate looked as though it had been told the party was fancy dress, when in actual fact it was a black tie do! Crunchy roasties, cauliflower cheese & fine green beans accompanied. A good selection, but some of the beans were older than their mates (some were dark and crunchy, others pale and softer). No complaints from my skinny, mum happy as larry, my filet didn't touch the sides, Rowland............well all the chicken and pasta has gone, but some of the fancy dress costume was left on the plate, but no complaints. Three tiramisu's (home made) and a toffee meringue for mother. The home made tiramisu was a disappointment, far too sweet and not enough coffee & alcohol. It just tasted....."sweet".
Good all round attentive service from what must be Derby's leading Italian restaurant. It's independently owned, with genuine Italian (+ 1 Spanish) staff. We all had meat for main course, but they have a comprehensive selection of pasta & pizza's, all around a£9-£11. I've had their seafood pasta before, it was pretty good. I find there's always a good atmosphere here, even though the room is quite large. At weekends it's always very busy. And did my skinny complain? Not once......... now that must be a good sign !
Food 7/10
Service 8/10
Venue 7/10
Tel: 01332 200814

"Everyone's looking for something new" (Something New, Anti-Pasti, 1980)
Martin, Thursday 25th January 2007

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