Monday, August 18, 2008

Limes restaurant, 102 Friargate, Derby, DE1 1EX

Limes wasn’t what I’d imagined when I agreed to have a midweek catch up with a friend, but I’m never one to miss an opportunity especially as head chef Ian Boden is firmly establishing himself as one of the regions top talents and has recently reached the final of the prestigious Knorr National Chef of the Year competition.
After a well earned cold beer was taken in the downstairs bar, we headed up the stairs to Hepburns restaurant. It was good to see that even on a Wednesday night there were a few tables in.
We nibbled away at some hand made bread rolls, spreading the soft butter on thicker than I ever would at home, ah well.
Momentum was maintained with the arrival of an appetiser, fennel velouté with tapenade and truffle oil was an exquisite opener which certainly woke and amused our taste buds.
For starters I chose the Langoustine & crab trifle with crab cake, poached pineapple and fennel & pernod sorbet. An contemporary plate that compartmentalised each element of the dish injecting an element of fun into this well thought out starter.

My only criticism would be that my ‘trifle’ was a bit too much jelly and not enough fish, the sorbet and crab cake were a joy. My friend Andrew went for the free range chicken and foie gras roulade with quail egg and truffle salad. A chunky slice of terrine veined with vibrant green brassica, accompanied by a perfectly cooked quail egg and a dressed pea shoot salad. We were both suitably impressed and ensured we sampled each others before they disappeared down the hatch.
For mains I paid the £5 supplement and had the roasted fillet and pressed blade of Derbyshire beef with braised carrot and a cabernet sauvignon vinegar and bay leaf sauce. It appears that one of Ians signatures is to serve beef in two ways (I had that at Christmas). Meltingly tender fillet with a carrot cooked in orange juice certainly gave my palette something to think about. Top drawer in every respect. Andrew chose the slow cooked cod with roasted fennel, black olive tapenade and saffron aioli, garnished with pea shoots. Ian seems to be getting carried away with the pea shoots and fennel this week. The slow cooked cod was delicate and its shape was held by the thin sleeve of prosciutto. We were once again captivated.
Quality rather than quantity ensured there was room for dessert and there was only one place to go, the assiette of Hepburn desserts to share. A polished granite platter with a mix of delicately prepared sweet morsels: A cone of rich chocolate torte, banana and mandarin sorbets a dainty slice of fine plum tart and a miniature version of the classic ice cream sandwich (my least favourite) were chased around the plate by our competing spoons until everything had vanished. It was a fine end to an worthy meal.
I was gutted that the lighting was to dark for my covert camera action, but I need say no more than this is certainly up there, competing as Derby’s no 1.
2 courses £24.95 and 3 courses £29.95 was certainly well worth every penny. Probably not your midweek ‘decentgrub’, but definitely the place to take the missus for your anniversary next month. Go on, she's worth it...........she'll be more than pleasantly surprised.

Limes source as much local and free range produce as possible and support local farmers.

Food 8.5/10
Service 8.5/10
Venue 8/10

www.limesbar.com

Tel: 01332 613665

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