The Bridge Inn, Chester Green, Derby, DE1 3QY

Now if I mention the Bridge Inn at Chester Green, it will probably conjure up images of deep fried food and two meals for £5 before 7.30pm, etc. But I can assure that John Palmer (previously at Soul on Green Lane) has been creating something considerably better than that here for the last year or so, I just can't believe I've not picked it up on my radar before.

The first floor dinning room is in complete contrast to the rest of the pub which is tonight predominately guys drinking Carling and watching the match on Sky. Their rapturous cheer drifting up the stairs, ensures the large room is given a bit of atmosphere. I was really impressed with the room, the low ceiling made it feel like we were on the set of "Death on the Nile", extremely warm considering the elements outside ravaging against the windows. I imagine it must be very pleasant in the summer, with views over the river Derwent from the abundance of windows.

There was a compact Specials menu and we all ordered from this apart from the Mother. It was Mussels in chorizo tomato sauce with french bread (£3.95) to start me off and my sister had a pop at the Arnold Bennett omlette (£3.95). A bowl full of mussels with a rich tomato, roasted pepper and chorizo sauce came with bread and fries. It was a meal in itself. My sisters omlette Arnold Bennett ( a famous classic, created so the story goes, by head chef at the Savoy hotel, for the novelist Arnold Bennett, who wrote an entire novel, Imperial Palace, while staying there) was perfectly cooked, firm on the outside with chunks of smokey fish inside an light, fluffy interior. Both were more "light bites" than starters, extremely satisfying.

Mains duly arrived. Mother had the battered cod, chunky chips and peas pudding (£5.95). She loved the home made chunky tartar sauce which had the addition of tarragon. For yours truly it was the pheasant breast with a bacon & cabbage potato cake and shalot & port sauce (£6.95). Absolutely top drawer. Locally shot pheasant with two rustic potato cakes in a rich, zingy sauce, perfect for a winters evening. Sister had their popular braised steak with wild mushrooms and herb lyonaise potato's. Two chunks of slow cooked, melt-in-the-mouth steak with a separate bowl of thinly sliced, layered herby potato's. Everyone took time between mouthfulls to murmur "fantastic", "what great value", "We'll be back here again soon"and "I can't believe it's not packed?".

I have to say it was extremely good, the prices were pretty keen and the quality of the food served up could have warranted considerably more. Freshly cooked, contemporary pub food in a very pleasant environment at outstandingly great prices. This really was Decent Grub.
After the meal John popped up for a chat and told us that all the food was locally sourced, ice creams and breads home made. I can't speak highly enough of the place. The only down side is that chefs can move from place to place quicker than managers at Newcastle United.

John...........the Bridge Inn and Derby, needs you!

Food 8/10

Service 7/10

Venue 7.5/10

Tel: 01332 371360

"We'll do the twist, the stomp, the mashed potato too. Any old dance that you wanna do" (Let's Dance, The Ramones, 1976)