Crown Inn, Marston Montgomery, Derbyshire.

My gastronomic weekend was rounded off with a visit to the Crown Inn at Marston Montgomery for Sunday lunch. Winner of the Derbyshire Food and Drink awards, for best pub/bistro of 2006. After a 30 minute tour of some Derbyshire country lanes (" I told you to turn right at that last roundabout!") we finally fell on the tiny hamlet of Marston Montgomery (about 8 miles south of Ashbourne).
The low beamed ceiling, warm red decor and old leather sofas gave the bar area a friendly feeling, and the young staff were courteous. Pint of Tim Taylor in hand and I was settling in well.
I had a starter of boudin blanc with brunoise vegetables, Bec had the game terrine with onion marmalade, both fresh and well presented plates, any remaining sauce & dressing was mopped up with the complimentary fresh bread. Moroccan shoulder of lamb with parsnip gratin pour moi, Roast rib eye of Derbyshire beef with chateau potatoes & Yorkshire pudding for Bec. I made a poor choice with the Moroccan lamb, Sunday's are about roasts, Yorskhire's and gravy, not apricots, cinnamon and nuts. It was good, but Bec had the right idea. The presentation was again modern and fresh, only the slightly charred parsnip gratin and the fact we had to fight over the one piece of broccoli in the bowl of shared veg, gave us any cause for complaint. Second pint of Tim Taylor and the car key was shoved in Bec's direction.
For a finale we had a portion of sticky toffee pudding and a slice of lemon torte, again the plates looked attractive and each came with a couple of hand made biscuits. There wasn't quite enough butterscotch sauce for my sticky toffee, but I'm one of those people that need lots of custard with the likes of Christmas pudding, when the custard or sauce runs out, it's game over for me. All in all, it was well worth the money, all starters were £3.95, mains £7.95 and puddings £3.95. A worthy winner. Just make sure you've got sat nav before you go!
Food 7.5/10
Service 8/10
Venue 7.5/10
Tel: 01889 591576
www.thecrowninn-derbyshire.co.uk

"Stranded, I'm so far from home" (I'm Stranded, The Saints, 1976)
Martin, Sunday 28th January 2007

Darley's, Darley Abbey, Derby

Perched next to the water and overlooking a weir is Darley's, arguably Derby's no.1 restaurant. It certainly holds the a premier location, unfortunately in the dark it's difficult to see the view and at this time of year the terrace is obviously closed. A table for four was booked for 7.30 (a bit early if you ask me) Bec et moi didn't turn up till 8.15, not a problem, but our companion's had polished off the olives and hand made crisps. The bar area is a good size with ample compact seating, and the roundhouse shaped room was resonant with the level of chit-chat & glass clinking you'd hope to find. More crisps were eventually provided (how much salt!) and companion #1 stole the olives from the next table. I tried one, it was bitter.
Down to business. The young man that took our orders gave me the creeps, I'm sure he's related to the Child Catcher in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. Seared scallops, with potato blinis & lemon dressing (£8.50) for two of us, Salad of roast quail with pomegranate dressing (£7.30) for the other two. No complaints, but I couldn't help thinking they were a bit too elementary and lacking a bit of "wow". Gressingham duck with creamed potato, winter veg & blackberry sauce for Bec (£18.20) The plate was an attractive & ample meal, but where did those enormous blackberries come from? Black pudding stuffed loin of lamb, confit potato & pearl barley ragout (£19.50) for companion #1. A well presented, seasonal (& hopefully locally sourced) winter plate. Last but not least two portions of Turbot, squid ink linguine, saffron & mussel chowder (£18.95) Looked good, tasted fresh, but I was hoping for more of a seafood 'kick' from the squid ink linguine. I wasn't happy with the smear that ran the full circumference of my plate, at this level, attention to detail should be precise. We mumbled amongst ourselves for a couple of minutes that there was no extra veg. In the end we didn't need it, but it was on the menu and maybe should have been suggested by the Child Catcher. Still, on the plus side we've got room for desert, well the two blokes did. The plastic laminated dessert menu was more akin to Little Chef, it's these little things that let it down. Chocolate fondant & strawberry daiquiri sorbet for companion#1, assiette of seasonal deserts pour moi (both £6.25). My large white plate was a picturesque mixture of sorbets, pastries and the like. However the shot of Aftershock in the middle of my plate didn't go down well with my desert wine. All in all it was a pleasant experience, but it could definitely add more "wow" factor to it's food, and further effort should be given to detail (clean plates, attractive desert menus, etc) When booking ask for a window seat.
Food 7/10
Service 7/10
Venue 7.5/10
Tel: 01332 364987
www.darleys.com

"I see all my dreams come tumbling down" (Train in vain, The Clash, 1979)
Martin, Friday 26th January 2007

San Marco, London Road, Derby

I'm sure my skinny (skinny blister/ sister) won't mind me saying that she's a pretty fussy eater at the best of times, I'm not just talking about what she likes to eat, but "this chair's not comfortable", "I can feel the air conditioning too much at this table", "it's a bit too smokey here, let's sit over there", etc, etc. Many a waitress has taken an order from us, only to return to the table half an hour later with plates of hot food, to find it empty, Marie Celeste style. Well it's Mother's birthday today (Burns night), and we're en route to collect a family friend with a view to going on to the Saracens Head at Shirley, 1 minute from Rowland's house and the word from the back of the car is.......................it's now San Marco.
San Marco on London Road is huddled amongst some of Derby busiest eateries (Anoki, Peppitos, etc) in what is probably one of Derby's oldest remaining areas for restaurants.
Considering it's such a cold night, the large room is warm and cosy (good lighting is important). We plonk our bum's on one of their large sofas and order a focaccia to share (not the one on the menu, but the one they used to do. It's good). We're seated. So how long before my skinny complains, we're too near the speaker on the wall?
Crisp clean linen, sparkling cutlery, only the slightly dry bread at fault so far. Still not a squeak out of my skinny. Focaccia all gone, the dry bread used to mop-up the remaining garlicky oil on the plate, mmmmm. Agnello Nero (about £13) for the birthday girl, a plate of well cooked lamb cutlets, with a rich red wine & garlic sauce, topped with a wedge of polenta. Filetto Pasticcione (£15.95) for my skinny, filet medalions with a brandy, porcini & mushroom sauce. Filetto San Marco (£15.95) for yours truly, a thick filet cooked medium/rare (should have just said rare, what was I thinking about?) wrapped in a slice of prosciutto, and neatly balanced on a bed of spinach. It was supposed to have a whisky & cream sauce, but I didn't detect the whisky. Pollo Mediterraneo (£10.75) for Rowland, a chicken breast on a bed of tagliatelle, topped with a mound of brightly coloured peppers, courgettes & olives. His plate looked as though it had been told the party was fancy dress, when in actual fact it was a black tie do! Crunchy roasties, cauliflower cheese & fine green beans accompanied. A good selection, but some of the beans were older than their mates (some were dark and crunchy, others pale and softer). No complaints from my skinny, mum happy as larry, my filet didn't touch the sides, Rowland............well all the chicken and pasta has gone, but some of the fancy dress costume was left on the plate, but no complaints. Three tiramisu's (home made) and a toffee meringue for mother. The home made tiramisu was a disappointment, far too sweet and not enough coffee & alcohol. It just tasted....."sweet".
Good all round attentive service from what must be Derby's leading Italian restaurant. It's independently owned, with genuine Italian (+ 1 Spanish) staff. We all had meat for main course, but they have a comprehensive selection of pasta & pizza's, all around a£9-£11. I've had their seafood pasta before, it was pretty good. I find there's always a good atmosphere here, even though the room is quite large. At weekends it's always very busy. And did my skinny complain? Not once......... now that must be a good sign !
Food 7/10
Service 8/10
Venue 7/10
Tel: 01332 200814

"Everyone's looking for something new" (Something New, Anti-Pasti, 1980)
Martin, Thursday 25th January 2007

Nico's diner, Brick Street, Derby

"Why don't you get your own washing machine" said one of the guys in the pub? "Because I live in an apartment and I don't want to hear it, when I'm watching TV". "Well then put it on a timer, to come on during the night!" he quickly replied. OK, so he's right, but nearly 2 years down the line, and I still take the washing to my beautiful laundrette. In that time I've been intrigued with Nico's diner, oppposite the laundrette and squeezed between the bookies and wine-off.
Going away tomorrow, no food in the fridge, so dash round with the missus. "No matter how many are in, or what you think, we're goin in!" I tell her. There were only two other tables occupied, but it's compact, cosy interior meant it still felt good. I think there are probably only ten tables at the most anyway. We dived straight in with a bowl of cheese nachos to share, it was only a couple of quid, but Tangy Cheese Doritos, not nachos, let it down a bit. Seafood tagliatelle for me (you can choose your pasta type, nice touch), medium black pepper sirloin for Bec. My large bowl of seafood pasta was good enough, creamy & garlicky. Bec's knife glided through her generous piece of meat, fresh salad garnish, but the Everest size mound of curly fries let it down. Far too many and more appropriate for your kids 10th birthday party! It would be better with a more manageable portion of chunky chips.
It wasn't long before yours truly was chatting to the guy on the table next to us, an eccentric retired gold dealer called Buzz, He and his partner have eaten there every night for 2 years !! (apart from Sundays) By all accounts given a days notice Nico will cook you anything you want. Aparently he does a very good mixed grill and sausage & mash, his speciality is mashed potato, made by baking spuds, then scooping out the middle and mixing in copious amounts of butter. Well for £28 smackers for the 2 of us, including drinks, it was fair game. Next time we'll probably drop the nachos, so I reckon you can both have a good plate full, with a cold beer for just over £20, as much as you'd want to pay in the week. Worth a look, and please say hello to Buzz from me. Oh, and one last thing, Nico's bistro, would certainly sound better than Nico's diner. Go for it !
Food 6/10
Service 6/10
Venue 5/10
Tel: 01332 208220

"You spurn my natural emotions" (Ever fallen in love, The Buzzcocks, 1979)
Martin, Tuesday 16th January 2007

Little Siam, Friargate, Derby

When looking for somewhere to eat, why do we often look through the window of the restaurant before deciding to go in? What are we afraid of? Does the amount of people dining determine the quality of the food? Are we afraid that if we're sat on our own, other people will look through the window and say "look at that wierd pair"? Or is it just that we Brits like safety in numbers?
Well I was going to dine here on Wednesday night with my mother & sister, but when mother saw it had only 2 diners, she promptly shrugged her shoulders and moved us on to Zizzi. 48 hours later & I'm back, a few more diners were present, but for a Friday night and prime location it was quiet (could be the time of year). I'd booked for 8, but me & the missus didn't turn up till 8.30. I think the complimentary prawn crackers had been waiting for half an hour, and had obviously given up. The place felt like it was stuck in a bit of an 80's 'Phoenix Nights' time warp, and I don't think the pictures of food plates displayed in the window do much to help, to me this lends itself to an air of 'take-away'. Menus hadn't been given much thought, with the customary wipe clean, plastic folder type. The layout was more like someone's cv than a menu (why do chinese restaurants still use the number system "I'll have a number 34, with a number 76" ??) With any restaurant, it's about attention to detail. Of course, no restaurant should be judged solely on it's type of menu, lighting, type of seats or whatever, but all these things are like pieces of a jigsaw, and when put together, they form a whole picture.
Orders for food & drink were promptly taken. First up was the mixed platter to share (£12 for 2 people) I'm a fan of starters in restaurants (I'd take starter over desert any time), but this type of starter is more visual, than taste, with the usual ornate flower carvings made from carrots & raddishes, all perfectly arranged on a brass stand. I reckon we'd paid £5, just for the visuals. Anyway I ate faster than Bec, so I got more. Only a bit of soggy sesame prawn toast remained. Plenty of entertainment was provided during the interval, when a waitress spilt what I assume was a glass of red wine, over a punter on the table opposite, "Panic stations". I'm thinking free meal here and dry cleaning bill !
Sweet and sour chicken for me, chicken with sweetcorn & mushrooms for Bec. Plenty of pineapple, tomatoe and onion, but the chicken was a bit thin on the ground. Bec's chicken was plentyfull, but the sauce didn't want to join in, and where's the chips ? "Sorry for the delay" when they finally turned up (how, when it's quiet, do they manage to do this?) Food eaten, fight over who pays, departure....
I know the owners are new and are obviously carrying the legacy of the previous guys, but it needs more than just a name change (which incidentally sounds too much like Siam Corner in Derby) Look at how indian restaurants like Anoki, Masala Art, etc have dragged them selves into the 21st Century, with modern contemporary dining, attentive service and ultimately good (& at times interestingly different) food. Come on guys, you're in a prime spot, Friargate, it should be rockin here. Give us a reason to come back, you're not the only Thai/Chinese in Deby.
£38 for 2, with drinks.
Food 5/10
Service 6/10 (I think the table opposite would disagree tho!!)
Venue 4/10
Tel: 01332 344828
www.littlesiam.co.uk

"Would you like number 23?" (Hong Kong Garden, Siouxsie and the Banshees, 1978)
Martin, Saturday 13th January 2007

Food glorious food........ or is it ?

January 2007
It's a cold damp Wednesday in January, I've just come back from Zizzi pizza in Derby (a chain!) with my mum and sister. My bowl of crab, pea and lemon oil spaghetti wasn't the worst in the world, but I knew it could be better. Why do we always end up at Zizzi or Pizza Express? I've decided, enough is enough !
Why is it that there are more crap places to eat, than good places. Where the hell do you go for dinner in the week that's not Indian, pasta or Chinese & isn't a chain (i.e. not independently owned). Why does most pub-grub fall short? Why is the only noise you hear coming from the kitchen that of a microwave "ping" and not a head chef shouting "service"! On this site we're gona find, with your help, the best places in the Derby area, let's say within a 15 mile radius, to eat, drink and shop for Decent Grub (including Nottingham?).Where do you get a traditional home cooked pub lunch? Where do you go for an impromtu dinner mid-week, that's been cooked, not just re-heated, and under a tenner? Where can I get a decent Gin & Tonic? (plenty of lime and ice, in my opinion) A decent cup of coffee and a perfectly pulled pint? Where can I buy organic & local produce? and where can I eat it? (now there's a challenge!) Where can you enjoy real ale with a hearty plate of localy produced sausages & mash? And where are those potentially Michelin star rated restaurants and chef's working away to create gastronomic perfection (come on there must be a budding Heston out there somewhere) The area does have some good places to eat and drink and there are plenty of people who are trying. But Derby doesn't even have an independent delicatessen anymore, for cryin out loud, Belper does! So let's find the local champions of good food, lets shout for Decent Grub! In fact tell me all your foodie thoughts and experiences from anywhere in the UK, I'm sure you wana tell em and I'd love to hear em.
Hopefully next time you fancy a plate of Decent Derbyshire Grub, you'll know where to look! From sausages to sushi, tell me about every mouthfull, everyplace, everywhere. I want your opinion on my reviews and your ratings out of 10, for food, service & venue. Let's see who gets the nod and who gets the knock? and hopefully together we can create a directory of the best!
.......... All I ask, is that it's Decent Grub!
Hey Ho, let's go ! ("Blitzkreig Bop", Ramones, 1976)
Martin, 9.10 pm, Wednesday 10th January 2007

PLEASE NOTE THAT ALL REVIEWS ARE JUST MY OWN PERSONAL OPINIONS AND AS WE ALL KNOW, RESTAURANT QUALITY AND SERVICE CAN CHANGE ON A DAILY BASIS. PLEASE TRY ALL THE ESTABLISHMENTS FOR YOUR SELVES AND LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK. ENJOY.........
MARTIN (decentgrub.com)