Friday, February 2, 2007

Saracens Head, Shirley, Derbyshire.

The Saracens Head, Shirley, halfway between Derby and Ashbourne, has recently been taken over by the crew from the Red Lion at Hollington, a pub which has achieved entries in some of the UK's leading eating and drinking guides. Having been to the Red Lion several times, I was keen to give their new venture a go.
My initial thought when I walked in was, it's too bright. I reckon some of the lamps should have softer lit bulbs, to make the place appear more cosy (and save money), and let the candles on tables get a look in.
The menu was displayed on a large chalk board. I like this, it says 'seasonal' and 'fresh' to me. However I was disappointed to see the only fish option, Lager battered fish and chunky chips, was crossed off, a second 'lighter' fish dish on the menu would have been good.
When we both saw the size of the portions being placed on the adjacent table, we decided a starter to share would be enough. Goats cheese wrapped in pancetta (about £4) came with a mound of fresh crunchy leaves and a tangy dressing. With two of us hacking away, it didn't last long.
Bec had Char grilled lemon, rosemary and garlic chicken with asparagus and tagliettelle (£7.50), she was easily beaten by the large amount of pasta. Pour moi it was Steak and mushroom pie with chunky chips and veg (£7.95). Both plates came piping hot, and as with Bec, I was beaten by the sheer volume of food. I was marginally disappointed that it wasn't actualy pie, but a plate full of stew with a cut out square of puff pastry, placed precariously on top, however my veg was spot on.
This is hearty pub grub, very much pie and chips stuff, but perfect for rounding off a long walk on a Winter's day, accompanied by a pint of real ale and a roaring log fire (they had both of these). They could definitely tweek the menu, by adding one more fish and vegetarian option. It's early days and they may eventually take it in an entirely different direction.
Maybe closed on Monday's.
Food 6.5/10
Service 6.5/10
Venue 6/10
Tel: 01335 360330

"We're goin down the pub" (Hurry up Harry, Sham 69, 1978)
Martin, Thursday 1st February, 2007

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