The Dog Inn, Main Road, Pentrich, DE5 3RE

Despite being 13 miles from Derby, the Dog Inn at Pentrich had been bleeping on my radar for some time. So this Saturday lunch we hit the gas and 20 minutes later we’re just about there. I’d pre-booked and recommend you do to ensure you get a table at this bustling north Derbyshire pub.
A pint of Timothy Taylor for me (luckily I’m not driving today) and a soft drink for my partner, passed the time quite nicely until our table was vacated and prepared.
Being lunch we opted for the two course £10.95 deal, three courses for £12.95 seemed very reasonable but just too much food for midday.
To start my partner had the soup of the day, which was fish. Vibrant red, saffron infused Mediterranean style bouillabaisse that exuded a deep taste of various shell fish. I found it delicious and was more than happy to polish off her leftovers. I had Mull of Kintyre rarebit toasties with apple and grape chutney. In my opinion it was seriously over described miniature cheese-on-toast, but none the less it was an agreeable savoury titbit.
For mains my partner had the Derbyshire pork sausages & mash with apple sauce and red onion gravy (pic 1). An all time pub favourite, executed heartily with a trio of herby pork bangers piled on to a heap of mash and with a moat of onion gravy. Once again it was quantity that beat her. I was not complaining though.
I had the chicken & ham hock puff pie with mushy peas, chunky chips and red wine jus (pic 2). Plentiful chunks of chicken and ham crowned with a top hat of light puff pastry all co-existing with a tarragon infused cream sauce and a swirl of red wine jus. I hit-it as hard as I could, but I couldn’t polish it all off, especially as I had also consumed a stray porky banger from someone else’s plate.

Service was adequate, the young staff ensuring that dinners were not neglected and tables were cleared promptly. In just over an hour we were done and it was time to head back to Derby for a much needed nap, zzzzz….
Hearty, contemporary pub food that’s definitely worth the ride out. Next time hopefully for dinner, so I can have a pop at the desserts. The dog’s b******s !

Food 8/10
Venue 7/10
Service 6.5/10

Tel: 01773 742781

www.thedoginn-pentrich.co.uk

The Bridge Inn, Chester Green, Derby, DE1 3QY

Now if I mention the Bridge Inn at Chester Green, it will probably conjure up images of deep fried food and two meals for £5 before 7.30pm, etc. But I can assure that John Palmer (previously at Soul on Green Lane) has been creating something considerably better than that here for the last year or so, I just can't believe I've not picked it up on my radar before.

The first floor dinning room is in complete contrast to the rest of the pub which is tonight predominately guys drinking Carling and watching the match on Sky. Their rapturous cheer drifting up the stairs, ensures the large room is given a bit of atmosphere. I was really impressed with the room, the low ceiling made it feel like we were on the set of "Death on the Nile", extremely warm considering the elements outside ravaging against the windows. I imagine it must be very pleasant in the summer, with views over the river Derwent from the abundance of windows.

There was a compact Specials menu and we all ordered from this apart from the Mother. It was Mussels in chorizo tomato sauce with french bread (£3.95) to start me off and my sister had a pop at the Arnold Bennett omlette (£3.95). A bowl full of mussels with a rich tomato, roasted pepper and chorizo sauce came with bread and fries. It was a meal in itself. My sisters omlette Arnold Bennett ( a famous classic, created so the story goes, by head chef at the Savoy hotel, for the novelist Arnold Bennett, who wrote an entire novel, Imperial Palace, while staying there) was perfectly cooked, firm on the outside with chunks of smokey fish inside an light, fluffy interior. Both were more "light bites" than starters, extremely satisfying.

Mains duly arrived. Mother had the battered cod, chunky chips and peas pudding (£5.95). She loved the home made chunky tartar sauce which had the addition of tarragon. For yours truly it was the pheasant breast with a bacon & cabbage potato cake and shalot & port sauce (£6.95). Absolutely top drawer. Locally shot pheasant with two rustic potato cakes in a rich, zingy sauce, perfect for a winters evening. Sister had their popular braised steak with wild mushrooms and herb lyonaise potato's. Two chunks of slow cooked, melt-in-the-mouth steak with a separate bowl of thinly sliced, layered herby potato's. Everyone took time between mouthfulls to murmur "fantastic", "what great value", "We'll be back here again soon"and "I can't believe it's not packed?".

I have to say it was extremely good, the prices were pretty keen and the quality of the food served up could have warranted considerably more. Freshly cooked, contemporary pub food in a very pleasant environment at outstandingly great prices. This really was Decent Grub.
After the meal John popped up for a chat and told us that all the food was locally sourced, ice creams and breads home made. I can't speak highly enough of the place. The only down side is that chefs can move from place to place quicker than managers at Newcastle United.

John...........the Bridge Inn and Derby, needs you!

Food 8/10

Service 7/10

Venue 7.5/10

Tel: 01332 371360

"We'll do the twist, the stomp, the mashed potato too. Any old dance that you wanna do" (Let's Dance, The Ramones, 1976)

Graze, 11-12 Friargate, Derby

Well at last, a brand new independent restaurant opening in Derby. This is exactly what local enthusiasts of "something that's half decent to eat, but isn't a chain" have been waiting for! The dark Bat Cave interior had intrigued me since the day it opened and now they've had enough time to correct any initial blips (I believe they had more than their fair share), it's time to don our miners helmet lamps and take the plunge.
It really is dark in here, not only are the walls, furniture, lights, etc all black, but the menu was pretty difficult to read being printed in black on dark grey paper.
The maitre 'de promptly turned up in his dark Gothan City suit, inappropriately smeared and stained in places. Maybe he's secretly attempting to paint one of the rooms white, in between his front of house duties.
An order for the Potted Atlantic Prawns (£5.75) and Smoked Mackerel Tian (£5.50) was placed along with a Crispy Belly Pork (£10.95) and a Poached Fried Chicken Roulade (£11.95) logged for mains. When enquiring if we'd need to order any accompaniments, extra chips were promptly offered by the man in black. Not a good sign.
G&T and Vodka & tonic were duly delivered. Hang on a minute, that's lemonade not tonic. Here we go .....
Once the transformation from humans to foxes was complete, I scanned round the room with my new ability to see in the dark and was taken aback by the sheer size of the place. My hearing must have also become more acute (bat like) as I was suddenly aware of the sheer volume in here. Several long tables towards the back of the room with large parties on them obviously made up the bulk of the volume. Hen do's or birthday's no doubt.
The starters came with suspicious lightening speed. My Potted Prawns wrapped in smoked salmon, were very chilled, they'd either been de-frosted or just taken out of a very cold fridge? Characterless in taste and texture, as was the thick wedge of foccacia, very "Morrisons bakery". The Mackerel tian was...... you guessed it, Mackrel pate. Bog standard stuff. Both dishes were displayed on large irregular shaped plates, massively over presented. All dressed up, with nowhere to go!
Within minutes our plates had been whisked away and we were presented with the main attraction on two more large inappropriate "OH, don't they look trendy" plates.
Tell me if I'm crazy but Crispy Belly Pork, needs to be crispy. Yes, you guessed it, it wasn't. A thick slice of wobbly pork isn't top of my list. The twice cooked chicken roulade wasn't saying much either, chunky chips, spinach and an alleged thyme jus were sharing the plate.
The speedy service, bland over presented food served to at least 100 covers at a time, made me think........ Could this be the new Antibo's?
Fine dining it certainly isn't.
Unfortunately this place is all show, at medium dough, for people "not in the know"!
No doubt you'll be invited to Karen's 21st birthday here, you'll see what I mean.......
Food 5/10
Venue 6/10
Service 4/10
Tel: 01332 208262

www.timetograze.com

"In darkness there is no sin, Light only brings the fear, Nothing to corrupt the eyes, There is no vision here" (Wait for the Blackout, The Damned 1980)

Martin (sometime in July, it wasn't that memorable)

Saracens Head, Shirley, Derbyshire.

The Saracens Head, Shirley, halfway between Derby and Ashbourne, has recently been taken over by the crew from the Red Lion at Hollington, a pub which has achieved entries in some of the UK's leading eating and drinking guides. Having been to the Red Lion several times, I was keen to give their new venture a go.
My initial thought when I walked in was, it's too bright. I reckon some of the lamps should have softer lit bulbs, to make the place appear more cosy (and save money), and let the candles on tables get a look in.
The menu was displayed on a large chalk board. I like this, it says 'seasonal' and 'fresh' to me. However I was disappointed to see the only fish option, Lager battered fish and chunky chips, was crossed off, a second 'lighter' fish dish on the menu would have been good.
When we both saw the size of the portions being placed on the adjacent table, we decided a starter to share would be enough. Goats cheese wrapped in pancetta (about £4) came with a mound of fresh crunchy leaves and a tangy dressing. With two of us hacking away, it didn't last long.
Bec had Char grilled lemon, rosemary and garlic chicken with asparagus and tagliettelle (£7.50), she was easily beaten by the large amount of pasta. Pour moi it was Steak and mushroom pie with chunky chips and veg (£7.95). Both plates came piping hot, and as with Bec, I was beaten by the sheer volume of food. I was marginally disappointed that it wasn't actualy pie, but a plate full of stew with a cut out square of puff pastry, placed precariously on top, however my veg was spot on.
This is hearty pub grub, very much pie and chips stuff, but perfect for rounding off a long walk on a Winter's day, accompanied by a pint of real ale and a roaring log fire (they had both of these). They could definitely tweek the menu, by adding one more fish and vegetarian option. It's early days and they may eventually take it in an entirely different direction.
Maybe closed on Monday's.
Food 6.5/10
Service 6.5/10
Venue 6/10
Tel: 01335 360330

"We're goin down the pub" (Hurry up Harry, Sham 69, 1978)
Martin, Thursday 1st February, 2007